The WAC Way

Equipment

Harness

Belay Device

Personal Anchor

Helmet

Rock Climbing

Set-up for Rock Climbing

Cleaning Sport Anchors - Thread and Lower

We use the AMGA / American Alpine Club recommended process for cleaning sport anchors.  

The process is as follows:

 

If the chains aren't big enough to thread a bight through, the process is altered slightly:

Glacier Travel

Set-up for Roped Glacier Travel

Crevasse Self-Rescue

Belaying

Set-up for Belay

Belaying Technique with Belay Device

The belay technique that is used with a belay device and Munter is the PBUS (Pull-Brake-Under-Slide):

Note:

Belaying Technique with Munter Hitch

Rappelling

We use a rappel technique where the rappel device is extended away from the harness using the PAS.  All rappels are backed up with an autoblock knot tied using a Sterling HollowBlock (13.5" long, 6.8mm diameter size).

Students should demonstrate use of both hands and both techniques (device and munter hitch).

Set-up for an Extended Rappel with Belay Device

Gear needed:  

Setup:

Set-up for Rappel with Munter Hitch

Gear needed:  

Setup:


Rappelling Technique

Climbing Communication

Traveling as a Group

Trip Planning and Leadership

Appendix