Snow 1 - Organizers Guide

WEEKEND OVERVIEW & GOALS

PLANNING THE WEEKEND

2014 Volunteers Survey

2014 Instructor Packet

2014 Student Packet

STUDENT GEAR LIST

ESSENTIALS

☐ USGS map (Snoqualmie Pass, 1 per group)

☐ Compass

☐ LED headlamp

☐ Pocket knife

☐ Waterproof matches

☐ First Aid kit

☐ Water (3 L capacity)

☐ Extra food and snacks

☐ Sunscreen

☐ Lip balm w/ SPF

☐ Trekking poles

☐ Emergency bivy

☐ Duct tape

☐ Hand and toe (optional) warmers

☐ Blue bags (2 days worth)

☐ Pack

CLOTHING (NO COTTON!)

☐ Optional: bandana (only acceptable cotton)

☐ Cold-weather hat

☐ Sun hat

☐ Light & heavy winter gloves

☐ Overmitts (weatherproof)

☐ (2) long-sleeve baselayer tops

☐ Mid-layer top

☐ Puffy jacket

☐ Rain jacket w/ hood

☐ Buff or balaclava

☐ (2) Underwear

☐ Baselayer bottoms

☐ Softshell pants

☐ Rain pants

BOOTS AND FOOTWEAR

☐ Mountaineering boots

☐ (2) pairs of heavy socks

☐ Gaiters

☐ Optional: liner socks (& extra pair)

☐ Optional: Camp footwear (e.g. down booties)

CLIMBING

☐ Helmet

☐ Harness

☐ Ice axe w/ leash (duct taped adze, pick, and spike)

☐ (3) locking carabiners

☐ (4) non-locking carabiners

☐ Belay/rappel device

☐ Personal prusik

☐ Personal anchor

☐ (2) single runners, (1) double-length runner

☐ Autoblock

☐ Picket

CAMP GEAR

☐ Tent w/ snow anchors

☐ Sleeping bag

☐ Sleeping pad

☐ Shovel (1 per two tent mates)

KITCHEN

☐ Stove (minimum: 1 per two tent mates)

☐ Fuel

☐ Cooking pot (1L; min. 1 per two tent mates)

☐ Stove pad

☐ Bowl, spoon, cup

☐ 1 tarp per group

☐ Overnight food and drinks

GOOD IDEAS - HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

☐ Sit pad

☐ Plastic bags (3mm garbage compactor ideal)

☐ Thermos

☐ Plastic boots (rent them)

OPTIONAL

☐ Toiletries (toilet paper, toothbrush, etc.)

☐ Pack towel (used to dry inside of tent, feet, wet gear)

CLASS/GROUP GEAR

INSTRUCTOR ROLES & RESPONSIBILITIES

STATION CURRICULUM

According to Mike D (TODO: fill out above with this info):

The quantity all depends on how the rotations work:

For anchors at snow 1, you need one full rope and one half rope for each team of 4 students. (typically max 3 of each) plus an extra half rope for demo and an extra full rope for the bollard.

For glacier at snow 1, you need one half rope for each team of students who will be at the glacier walk (typically max 3).

Note that anchors and glacier walk cannot share ropes; the classes run simultaneously.

SCHEDULE OF EVENTS

SATURDAY

SUNDAY

ICE AXE ARREST

  1. Sitting glissade

  2. Feet first: face up

  3. Feet first: face down

  4. Feet first: with pack

  5. Head first: face up

  6. Head first: face down

  7. Head first: with pack

Details about the above can be found here (Ira's Snow 1 Ice Axe document).

ASCENDING/DESCENDING

  1. Rest step

  2. Pressure breathing

  3. Step kicking

  4. Switchbacks

  5. Plunge step

SNOW ANCHORS

  1. Belays: Seated belay (body and off harness), boot axe belay, standing axe belay, anchored, belay off harness (seated or standing)

  2. Snow anchors: Picket-pound into position, fluke, deadman, T-slot w/picket or ice axe, bollard, ice screws

  3. Rappels: Bollard, snow anchors, rappel anchor back-up (for use with two or more climbers)

  4. Carrying and organizing snow anchor equipment

Details about the above can be found here (Mike's email to the anchors instructors).

GLACIER TRAVEL

  1. Tying in for glacier travel

  2. Rope management

  3. Traveling on a rope team

  4. Navigating crevasses and other obstacles

  5. Running belay

KITCHEN DESIGN

  1. Constructing wind barriers using slabs from table and seating area

  2. Constructing functional, sturdy area for seating with proper consideration for traffic patterns

  3. Constructing functional table for cooking and eating upon

ALL INSTRUCTORS

• Be at Guye Cabin parking lot at 6:45 am on Saturday.

• Know your stuff and provide a good example for students.

• No individual side trips during course of outing.

• Pack/plan for a worst case scenario. Snow 1 should not be a time to practice Light & Fast techniques. Bring thermoses, extra food and clothes for cold students at stations.

• Anything of concern, please notify Station Leader or Snow 1 Organizer.

SNOW 1 ORGANIZERS

• Student Sign-In and Sign-Out.

• Have extra name tags, duct tape, schedules and checklists on hand.

• Act as the main point of contact for the overall coordination and flow of the outing.

• Ensure instructors & student groups are on schedule throughout the day.

• Check in with Student Group Leaders to address any student issues.

• Coordinate with appropriate resources in making of a Go/No-Go decision (if applicable); if weekend is cut short due to weather or other ”wild card,” focus on ice axe and step kicking. These are the skills that the students most need to learn this weekend.

• Gather ropes at the end of the weekend.

STATION AREA ORGANIZERS

• Oversee operation of station and communication of curriculum, direct activities of station instructors and students at your appointed station.

• Responsible for the over-all safety, organization and running of assigned station.

• Responsible for the setup and break-down of station.

• Main point of contact for the Instructors and an authority on the WAC way and safety.

• Responsible for the instructors in their area.

• Coordinate with Student Group Leaders to provide additional attention to students who are challenged and assigns instructor resources to students (if applicable).

• Coordinate instructors breaks away from the station.

• Provide additional guidance or coaching to students or instructors as needed.

• Provide feedback for each student to Student Group Leader after each session.

• Need: watch, radio (note: tuned to station 5.10, please bring your own radio if you have one), schedule.

STATION INSTRUCTORS

• Run students through skills at your appointed station.

• Check in with the Station Area Organizer at beginning of session (if applicable).

• Know station skills that will be covered, how to teach them and in context.

• Monitor and teach student to ensure safe and correct skills technique.

• Follow-up with the Station Area Organizer on feedback of students (grading) for Ice Axe Arrest and Ascending/Descending stations.

• Notify the Student Group Leader/Area Organizer if students are having problems.

• Responsible for student’s safety and skills during your time at assigned station.

• Stay focused on and attentive to the student.

• Act as the student’s point of contact on an individual skill.

2014 lessons:

  • On Saturday, having the glacier walk and ice axe arrest back-to-back on the scheduling caused ice axe arrest to start late. The schedule needs some re-jigging.

  • For glacier walk, full 60m ropes were too long and snagged on trees and made it awkward to teach because distances were too long. Half ropes would have been better. Note that gear has been changed above.

  • A great place to run Snow 1 makeup is Alpental. The slopes behind the cabin don't have enough coverage at this point in the year, and Alpental is usually closed.

EMERGENCY INFORMATION

Nearest hospitals

Snoqualmie Valley Hospital

9575 Ethan Wade Way SE, Snoqualmie, WA 98065

(425) 831-2300

Open 24/7

Directions (traveling east on I-90):

    1. Take the WA-202W exit, exit 31, toward N. Bend/Snoqualmie

    2. Turn right onto Bendigo Blvd. S/WA-202

    3. Turn slight left onto Bendigo Blvd. N/WA-202. Continue to follow WA-202

    4. Turn left onto Meadowbrook Way SE

    5. Take the 1st right onto Ethan Wade Way SE

Swedish Medical Center, Issaquah campus (ER is open 24/7)

751 N.E. Blakely Dr., Issaquah

(425) 313-4000

Directions (traveling east on I-90):

    1. Take exit 18 for E Sunset Way/Highlands Dr — 0.6 mi

    2. Keep left at the fork and merge onto Highlands Dr NE — 0.9 mi

    3. Turn left (west) at the first traffic light onto NE Discovery Dr — 492 ft

    4. Turn left (south) at the next light onto 8th Ave NE — 0.2 mi

    5. Travel down 8th Ave., until it turns into the Swedish/Issaquah main entrance

    6. Immediately turn right to enter the underground parking garage. Parking is also available on the surface lots.

ERP Plan:

Click <insert link> for last year's ERP. Make sure all content and contacts are up to date prior to the weekend

CONTACT INFORMATION / RESOURCES

<insert links>

Student packet from 2013

Instructor packet from 2013

Volunteer signup and sign-in sheet from 2013

LESSONS LEARNED