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Knots and Skills

Knowledge of the following knots and skills is required. The Knots Test Checklist can be found here.

Belaying

Rappelling

  • Rappelling w/ ATC (with both dominant and non-dominant hand, autoblock backup)
  • Rappelling w/ Munter Hitch (with dominant hand, autoblock backup)

Skills

  • Climbing Signals
    • Refer to FOTH, page 183, for a list of voice commands. Use partners' names when issuing the commands, starting the command with your partner's name (e.g. "Jill, on belay").
    • For more detail about climber communication, the American Alpine Club has an article
  • Reversed and Opposed Carabiners - Used in lieu of a locking carabiner
    • Refer to FOTH, page 154 for illustration
  • Butterfly Coil - Rope storage
    • Secure the butterfly coil with a square knot on top
  • Passing protection on a running belay - Use this to pass protection while tied in for glacier travel
    • While both ways shown are certainly valid, for this class, you should learn the "fast" way
  • Passing protection on a fixed hand line - Use this to pass protection while attached to the hand line with a prusik (FOTH, page 256)
    • After tying prusik on hand line, the prusik should be clipped into harness' belay loop (if it has one) with a locking carabiner
    • Bod-style harnesses with no belay loop would have the prusik clipped into the carabiner that is attached to the harness' waist and leg loops
    • To pass the protection, slide prusik knot through the carabiner on the fixed line and then clip the two strands of the prusik through that carabiner's gate

Knots

Friction Hitches

  • Auto-block - Backup when rappelling, ensure the system cannot undo the leg buckle when weighted
    • Girth hitch the auto-block around your leg loop, ensuring the auto-block system cannot undo the leg buckle. Wrap 2-3 times around both strands of rope, and clip other end with a carabiner back to leg loop for WAC Way.
  • Prusik - Friction knot, engages when loaded in both directions
  • Klemheist - Friction knot, engages when loaded one direction, can use webbing

Other Useful Resources

The following skills and topics are covered in this class, although they are not on the classroom knots test.